What does Transport Canada consider a power assisted-bicycle?
We consider a power assisted bicycle to be an electric bicycle propelled by either a combination of muscular power and a motor, or by the motor alone. Section 2(1) of the Motor Vehicle Safety Regulations (MVSR) describes a power assisted bicycle as follows:
- (a) has steering handlebars and is equipped with pedals,
- (b) is designed to travel on not more than three wheels touching with the ground,
- (c) is capable of being propelled by muscular power,
- (d) has one or more electric motors which have, singly or in combination, the following characteristics:
- (i) it has a total continuous power output rating, measured at the shaft of each motor, of 500 W or less,
- (ii) if it is engaged by the use of muscular power, power assistance immediately ceases when the muscular power ceases,
- (iii) if it is engaged by the use of an accelerator controller, power assistance immediately ceases when the brakes are applied, and
- (iv) it is incapable of providing further assistance when the bicycle attains a speed of 32 km/h on level ground,
- (e) bears a label that is permanently affixed by the manufacturer and appears in a conspicuous location stating, in both official languages, that the vehicle is a power-assisted bicycle as defined in this section, and
- (f) has one of the following safety features:
- (i) an enabling mechanism to turn the electric motor on and off that is separate from the accelerator controller and fitted in such a manner that it is operable by the driver, or
- (ii) a mechanism that prevents the motor from being engaged before the bicycle attains a speed of 3 km/h.
- Ontario Power assisted Bicycle Regulations:
THIS VEHICLE IS A POWER
ASSISTED BICYCLE AND
MEETS ALL THE
REQUIREMENTS UNDER
SECTION 2(1) OF THE
CANADA MOTOR VEHICLE
SAFETY REGULATIONS.
CE VÉHICULE EST UNE BICYCLETTE
ASSISTÉE ET RECONTRE LA NORME 2(1)
DU RÈGLEMENT SUR LA SÉCURITÉ
DES VÉHICULES AUTOMOBILES DU CANADA. - Sample label
- Highway Traffic ActONTARIO REGULATION 369/09POWER-ASSISTED BICYCLESConsolidation Period: From December 6, 2018 to the e-Laws currency date.Last amendment: 487/18.This is the English version of a bilingual regulation.
Maximum weight
1. The unladen weight of a power-assisted bicycle must not be more than 120 kilograms. O. Reg. 369/09, s. 1.Wheel width, diameter
2. (1) The wheels of a power-assisted bicycle must not be less than 35 millimetres wide. O. Reg. 369/09, s. 2 (1).(2) The diameter of the wheels of a power-assisted bicycle must not be less than 350 millimetres. O. Reg. 369/09, s. 2 (2).Battery and motor
3. (1) The battery and motor of a power-assisted bicycle must be securely fastened to the bicycle to prevent them from moving while the bicycle is in motion. O. Reg. 369/09, s. 3 (1).(2) The motor of a power-assisted bicycle must cease to propel the bicycle forward if pedalling stops, the accelerator is released or the brakes are applied. O. Reg. 487/18, s. 1.Electric terminals
4. All electric terminals on a power-assisted bicycle must be completely insulated and covered. O. Reg. 369/09, s. 4.Brakes
5. The brakes of a power-assisted bicycle must be capable of bringing the bicycle, while being operated at a speed of 30 kilometres per hour on a clean, paved and level surface, to a full stop within nine metres from the point at which the brakes were applied. O. Reg. 369/09, s. 5.No modifications
6. A power-assisted bicycle must not be ridden on, driven or operated if it has been modified after its manufacture in any way that may result in increasing its power or its maximum speed beyond the limits set out in clause (d) of the definition of “power-assisted bicycle” in section 2 of the Motor Vehicle Safety Regulations made under the Motor Vehicle Safety Act (Canada). O. Reg. 369/09, s. 6.Good working order
7. A power-assisted bicycle must not be ridden on, driven or operated unless it is in good working order. O. Reg. 369/09, s. 7.8. Omitted (provides for coming into force of provisions of this Regulation). O. Reg. 369/09, s. 8.
I have an 66 cc 2-stroke engine on my schwinn bike. What do you guys think of equipping it with an alternator? I was thinking about putting an electric front wheel on the bike with a battery that I would charge with the gas engine.
I found a low rpm generator that could potentially work for this application. I could place this unit in a housing and run a drive chain directly from the rear axle. Would a small generator like this be powerful enough to charge the battery? Thanks!
However, depending on the equipment you use, your *peak* power output could be much higher than what your 66 cc engine could produce, and this peak power could be used for climbing hills, fighting headwinds, passing, etc. So, if you travel lots of ups and downs or often have headwinds, your idea might benefit you so you're not crawling up hills or against the wind. Also, like the Chevy Volt, you still have battery power if your engine quits or if you run out of gas (so it's like having a reserve). It'll also give you electric power for lights, radio, etc.
I googled "electric front wheel" and found out that it in fact is an electric motor with the purpose to help powering the bike.
…we’re talking hybrid petrol/electric/human power… [but] the roar of a petrol engine would be quite out of keeping…
This question should really be broken into two parts – legal and technical. Under UK law (the Electrically Assisted Pedal Cycles Regulations 1983) an electric bicycle is defined as a machine where ‘The motor assistance must be provided by an electric motor.’ Which sounds fine, except that, ‘Propulsion by an internal combustion engine is not permitted’. Now, of course, this wording is intended to outlaw direct drive from an internal combustion engine.What you propose is, effectively, a mobile battery charger, topping up a conventional battery.This would be another interesting matter for the courts to decide. One assumes the legal debate would centre on this concept of ‘propulsion’, thus I suspect the trailer would make no difference – if this form of charging was adjudged to be within the law, it would also be legal carried on the bicycle.
Technically, there are no great complications:We’re talking hybrid petrol/electric/human power here. Such a vehicle could run on human power in flat urban areas, human and electric power on hills, and top-up the battery from the internal combustion power source as and when required. Range would be quite considerable, because fuel consumption would be nil on many journeys. But on the open road, the roar of a petrol engine would be quite out of keeping, so it’s hard to see the advantages over a small motorcycle for longer journeys.
Once again, one suspects that fuel cells may soon render such dramatic steps unnecessary. Provided an internal combustion engine is not involved, the regulations seem to allow any form of electrical power generation, from solar to nuclear. Neither of these extremes are very practical, but a small fuel cell probably would be.
Electric bike with capability of self-charging
Step Up Converter:
3-PK1270 BATTERIES connected in series makes up the power pack.
Water bottle Gas Tank
Never liked those black tear drop shaped gas tanks that you see with Gas Bike kits, so i have been looking for an alternative which doesn't conjure up thoughts of smelly gasoline.
Controller Wiring Diagram:
The "power and electric lock" function is straightforward. The heavy red and black are your main battery power, and the orange wire is the "ignition" which provides battery power to the actual controller logic.
Phase and hall wires are standard, as well. There's a group of pads on the PCB - "5V", "U", "V", "W", and "GND" all together. These are the red, yellow, green, white, and black hall wires, respectively.
The EBS brake wires are both grey and, when jumpered together, turn on the braking (or regen, if true) capability - provided the LVC and power source are compatible. These are connected to pads labelled "DS" and "X" on the PCB
The "high potential brake" (it's purple) is an input signal that would be used if this controller were used on a scooter. You'd connect this to the same 12V signal that drives the bike's tail light. It goes to "SH" on the PCB and has the same effect as shorting the low potential brake.
The low "low potential" brake (the one most of us actually use) is a black and white, going to "GND" and "SL", respectively. When shorted, this switches off motor power and activates EBS.
The throttle ("handle accelerator", as diagrammed) is red, white, and black. Red goes to "+4.3V", black to "GND", and white to "SD" - the latter being the actual throttle signal.
The "gear switch" is the 3-speed control. Black goes to "GND", grey to "K1", and white to "K2". Left open, the motor runs at its "medium" speed. Short black to grey, and speed is reduced to "low". Short black to white and you get full speed.
The "reverse function" (brown and black, going "DC" and "GND", respectively) reverses the motor when shorted.
The "cruise function" (blue and black, going to "Q" and "GND", respectively) holds your current speed when shorted.
The "autometer signal" is interesting. It seems analogue (though probably just buffered PWM). The faster you go, the more voltage you read on this line. What's weird is that it hangs out of the controller, unprotected and uninsulated, but ramps up as high as 18V when the bike is at full throttle on a 39V pack. It's blue, and connected to "S+". I have no idea how I'd use this, though driving a regular analogue panel meter could be fun.
There are two connectors for an alarm function - which I have NO idea about.
Alarm power (red and black) goes to pads marked "PS+" and "GND".
Alarm signal is three wires - Grey goes to "A3", white goes to "W", and orange just brings back out full battery voltage (it's directly connected to the orange "ignition" wire).
The difference is the low brake line gets connected to ground to activate the ebrake function.
The high brake line takes pack voltage to activate the ebrakes.
The high brake is generally used when the bike has brake lights. The brake lever switches are used to turn on the light so can't be used as low brake inputs.
Electric Start:I had the same question when i came to the forum. Everybody said that i'd better of with just a metal pullstart. I got both. But electric is PITA to make it work. You will need to get wires, swiches and a battery. That'll add a few kilograms. Also a longer cluch bolt and 4 longer clutch housing bolts.
And also not to forget that after putting that on your bike you will have to push your engine a whole lot to the right because of pinion offset and chain being out of straght line. For that you will have to modify or fabricate a new engine mount. Also it will be very uncomfortable to ride. Because the right side of your bike will be seriously fatter (pull-start sticking out). And the last thing but the most important for you, i saw you were looking for power, that thing will kill all your power. Because you increase the rotating mass of your engine by roughly 30%.
Jack Shaft Installation:
Used for the case where the engine uses the gears and bike chain to drive the back wheel thus eliminating the large motorcycle chain and reducing the large chain drag.
Chain Size Comparison:
https://electricscooterparts.com/chain.html
My upgraded Hybrid Bike with 1000 Watt front wheel hub and 48 Volt Lithium- Ion Battery pictured above and below packed inside the shipping foam while I await the delivery of the new aluminium battery box.
New 44 tooth Rear Sprocket mounted with a 1 inch machined Hub Adapter which after use, we found out that it was slipping on the hub and bearing on the spokes under the driving torque.
The following parts are only compatible with a Flop-Flop Wheel Hub:
*Sprocket
Number of holes: 4 holes
Pitch: 46mm (Adjacent hole center distance)
Diagonal: 65mm (Diagonal hole center distance)
Hole diameter: 6mm
Number of teeth: 54
Inner diameter: 54mm (Approx)
Outer diameter: 141mm (Approx)
Thickness: 4mm (Approx)
Weight: 340G (Approx)
*Freewheel
Number of holes: 4 holes
Inner diameter: 34mm (Approx) (Metric straight thread)
Outer diameter: 78mm (Approx)
Thickness: 15mm (Approx)
Hole diameter: 6mm (Approx)
Pitch: 46mm (Adjacent hole center distance)
Diagonal: 65mm (diagonal hole center distance)
Thread: Metric straight thread
Weight: 160G (Approx)
Adding Regen Capability:
Regen supporting Controller.
www.pushbikeengine.com has just put up a video of a bike that is close to duplicating my Mk 2 Hybrid bike.
Our Mk2 Gas Electric Hybrid :
Just counted the links in the pedal chain of the Beach Cruiser and found there are 114 links and I also proved that 1/2 pitch 1/8 with chain will work with the Shimano tensioner and 7 speed cassette. That means that if I get a 114 link 1/2 x 1/8 chain it will work with the Jack Shaft kit that I am slowly installing on the motorized Beach Cruiser.
The front 48 volt 1000 Watts Direct Drive Hub motor is quiet and packs a big punch for negotiating steep grades and is capable of battery Regen while under Gas Powered conditions.
The Lithium ion 48 volt 14 amp-hours battery is capable of an hour plus peddle assist runs at -5 degrees temperature which matches my minimum comfort level.
Not all Controllers are capable of delivering the Regen feature your system is capable of so, it's important to choose one that states so in the description.
- About us (Solu), Professional factory of circuit boards for Arduino, welcome to our store for more choices with best price. What we pursue is your satisfication of our service, not just for our goods.For any reason you are unsatisfied with our product at any time, simply contact support for exchange or refund. we will reply you about any question you ask within 24 hours
- Non-isolated step-up (Boost)
- Input voltage: 3.5V-35V
- Output voltage: 5V-56V (Must ensure that set the output voltage is higher than the input voltage)
- Input current: 3A (max),Rated current:2A
Bike Dynomo::
12V 6W.
By dynamo.
Note: Please check the sample bike before purchase and please contactus via Ebay message if you not sure about your bike.
Voltage:AC Voltage
AC/DC Rectifier:
Water bottle Gas Tank
Never liked those black tear drop shaped gas tanks that you see with Gas Bike kits, so i have been looking for an alternative which doesn't conjure up thoughts of smelly gasoline.
Controller Wiring Diagram:
The "power and electric lock" function is straightforward. The heavy red and black are your main battery power, and the orange wire is the "ignition" which provides battery power to the actual controller logic.
Phase and hall wires are standard, as well. There's a group of pads on the PCB - "5V", "U", "V", "W", and "GND" all together. These are the red, yellow, green, white, and black hall wires, respectively.
The EBS brake wires are both grey and, when jumpered together, turn on the braking (or regen, if true) capability - provided the LVC and power source are compatible. These are connected to pads labelled "DS" and "X" on the PCB
The "high potential brake" (it's purple) is an input signal that would be used if this controller were used on a scooter. You'd connect this to the same 12V signal that drives the bike's tail light. It goes to "SH" on the PCB and has the same effect as shorting the low potential brake.
The low "low potential" brake (the one most of us actually use) is a black and white, going to "GND" and "SL", respectively. When shorted, this switches off motor power and activates EBS.
The throttle ("handle accelerator", as diagrammed) is red, white, and black. Red goes to "+4.3V", black to "GND", and white to "SD" - the latter being the actual throttle signal.
The "gear switch" is the 3-speed control. Black goes to "GND", grey to "K1", and white to "K2". Left open, the motor runs at its "medium" speed. Short black to grey, and speed is reduced to "low". Short black to white and you get full speed.
The "reverse function" (brown and black, going "DC" and "GND", respectively) reverses the motor when shorted.
The "cruise function" (blue and black, going to "Q" and "GND", respectively) holds your current speed when shorted.
The "autometer signal" is interesting. It seems analogue (though probably just buffered PWM). The faster you go, the more voltage you read on this line. What's weird is that it hangs out of the controller, unprotected and uninsulated, but ramps up as high as 18V when the bike is at full throttle on a 39V pack. It's blue, and connected to "S+". I have no idea how I'd use this, though driving a regular analogue panel meter could be fun.
There are two connectors for an alarm function - which I have NO idea about.
Alarm power (red and black) goes to pads marked "PS+" and "GND".
Alarm signal is three wires - Grey goes to "A3", white goes to "W", and orange just brings back out full battery voltage (it's directly connected to the orange "ignition" wire).
Brainpower Controller with electric braking and Regen:
On most controllers, the low brake and high brake do the same thing. Kills the throttle and activates regen if that is a feature.
The difference is the low brake line gets connected to ground to activate the ebrake function.
The high brake line takes pack voltage to activate the ebrakes.
The high brake is generally used when the bike has brake lights. The brake lever switches are used to turn on the light so can't be used as low brake inputs.
Electric Start:I had the same question when i came to the forum. Everybody said that i'd better of with just a metal pullstart. I got both. But electric is PITA to make it work. You will need to get wires, swiches and a battery. That'll add a few kilograms. Also a longer cluch bolt and 4 longer clutch housing bolts.
And also not to forget that after putting that on your bike you will have to push your engine a whole lot to the right because of pinion offset and chain being out of straght line. For that you will have to modify or fabricate a new engine mount. Also it will be very uncomfortable to ride. Because the right side of your bike will be seriously fatter (pull-start sticking out). And the last thing but the most important for you, i saw you were looking for power, that thing will kill all your power. Because you increase the rotating mass of your engine by roughly 30%.
Jack Shaft Installation:
Used for the case where the engine uses the gears and bike chain to drive the back wheel thus eliminating the large motorcycle chain and reducing the large chain drag.
Chain Size Comparison:
https://electricscooterparts.com/chain.html
My upgraded Hybrid Bike with 1000 Watt front wheel hub and 48 Volt Lithium- Ion Battery pictured above and below packed inside the shipping foam while I await the delivery of the new aluminium battery box.
New 44 tooth Rear Sprocket mounted with a 1 inch machined Hub Adapter which after use, we found out that it was slipping on the hub and bearing on the spokes under the driving torque.
The following parts are only compatible with a Flop-Flop Wheel Hub:
*Sprocket
Number of holes: 4 holes
Pitch: 46mm (Adjacent hole center distance)
Diagonal: 65mm (Diagonal hole center distance)
Hole diameter: 6mm
Number of teeth: 54
Inner diameter: 54mm (Approx)
Outer diameter: 141mm (Approx)
Thickness: 4mm (Approx)
Weight: 340G (Approx)
*Freewheel
Number of holes: 4 holes
Inner diameter: 34mm (Approx) (Metric straight thread)
Outer diameter: 78mm (Approx)
Thickness: 15mm (Approx)
Hole diameter: 6mm (Approx)
Pitch: 46mm (Adjacent hole center distance)
Diagonal: 65mm (diagonal hole center distance)
Thread: Metric straight thread
Weight: 160G (Approx)
Hole center distance 79.905 mm
Adding Regen Capability:
www.pushbikeengine.com has just put up a video of a bike that is close to duplicating my Mk 2 Hybrid bike.
Our new hybrid between electric & petrol engine is nearly finished. The electric engine is 500w - 36V & Petrol engine is 80cc - 2 stroke with special transmission which allow to use in the mountains or in a big hills. We are in process to create special step up inventor to charge the battery of electric engine. This bike is more economical from a basis model. Unique bike one in Ireland. Best way to be unique with Push Bike Engine !
Just counted the links in the pedal chain of the Beach Cruiser and found there are 114 links and I also proved that 1/2 pitch 1/8 with chain will work with the Shimano tensioner and 7 speed cassette. That means that if I get a 114 link 1/2 x 1/8 chain it will work with the Jack Shaft kit that I am slowly installing on the motorized Beach Cruiser.
The front 48 volt 1000 Watts Direct Drive Hub motor is quiet and packs a big punch for negotiating steep grades and is capable of battery Regen while under Gas Powered conditions.
The Lithium ion 48 volt 14 amp-hours battery is capable of an hour plus peddle assist runs at -5 degrees temperature which matches my minimum comfort level.
Not all Controllers are capable of delivering the Regen feature your system is capable of so, it's important to choose one that states so in the description.
PHATMOTO ROVER III from GASBIKE
Just finished assembling my new Phatmoto Hybrid bike for the 2020 biking season which will soon be upon us.
Just took my new Phatmoto Hybrid bike for a test ride today around the neighborhood mostly using the electric system and pedal power for propulsion. I did do a short section using gas and pedal power when the opportunity arose, just as a test of that part of the system.
Observations:
Chain noise and drag where noticeable during engine off conditions;
Pedal assist is far too powerful at this point, there is no way to control its effect with the system I have and the only check I have on my speed short of applying brakes is to stop pedaling or backpedal also I have found that the application of electric throttle will cancel pedal assist;
Under gas power the engine has a tendency to quit at the most inopportune time, at stop signs, traffic lights or just coasting with the throttle closed.
I am still searching for the solution to the stalling problem. Possible causes are: Lack of venting of fuel tank; engine still tight (less than 5 kilometers); engine idle set too low or, fuel mixture too lean.
Beach Cruiser Mk 3
Now that I am beginning to see the third version of my Schwinn Beach Cruiser Hybrid take shape I am about to get rid of that ugly Black Gas Tank forever. Finally got around to making up the Water Bottle Tank that I long envisaged would replace the standard kit tank.
The next problem is to find the perfect place to mount it.
Motor Controller Display:
Features:
1. PREMIUM QUALITY: Plastic shell with fine craftsmanship ensures good toughness and waterproof feature, which provides better protection for inner circuit and makes it more durable.2. APPLICATION& FUNCTIONA: It allows you to easily have a look at the basic state of electric bike about speed, power, mode, lamp.
3. EASY TO INSTALL: The wires and interfaces are durable, and ensure low malfunction of long time use. Each interface has different color for your easy installation.
4. VERSATILE USE: It is suitable for 22.2mm handlebar, perfect accessory for electric bike, scooter, etc. This LED panel ha sensitive buttons, which is easy to operate.
Specification:
Condition: 100% Brand New
Material: Plastic
Color: Black
LED Display Cable Length: 1.5m / 59in
Size: Approx. 7.5*4cm / 2.95*1.57inch
Suitable Handlebar Diameter: 22.2cm / 8.74inch
Weight: Approx. 112g
Options(Power Supply Voltage): 24V; 36V; 48V
Under-Voltage Protection: 24V-19V; 36V-30V; 48V-42V
Packing List:
1 x Display
Note:
red: power positive electrode
blue: power output
yellow: lamp positive electrode
brown: lamp negative electrode
black: power negative electrode
green: gear signal
All of a sudden I have a new Problem, a screeching clutch.
After the clutch failed the clutch had to be removed and now I ride the Phatmoto as an E-Bike.
Gas/Electric Hybrid Drive System by Staton Inc:
Honda GXH50 49.3cc Four Cycle engine, Hybrid Drive with 24 Volt 600 Watt Currie Electric Motor with #25 freewheeling sprocket.
Note: The motors with the Solid sprockets - Non freewheels will not work as good as the freewheel sprockets and you should use a power disconnect when not using the electrice motor.
Shown is a INSIDE drive gearbox. You could use a 18.75 or 16.07 to 1 reduction gearbox with the added mid Drive output shaft.
You could also do this with a Outside Drive or Dual Drive gearbox.
The gearbox has been put in a 3 o'clock position so the engine and gearbox would mount in Front of the sprocket that is driven.
This is just information and pictures ONLY.
Build your own Battery:
Samsung 30Q (INR18650-30Q) is an excellent 18650 battery for users who like high capacity without forgoing a lot of discharge (drain capability). The Samsung 30Q has 3,000mAh and a maximum discharge current at 15A continuous.
3 rows in parallel = 9 Amp Hours Capacity.
Another interesting idea for a Gas/Electric Hybrid Bike:
Simple DC Generator you can build yourself:
